Author: Henley
Hobbies: Spelunking, Stained Glass objects and windows - I have a tutorial on how to make a faux stained glass window right here, Wood Carving. Sailing, Orchid Raising and Collecting Pinball Machines/ arcade games.
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The Daily Knicker
Guy Bourdin has, without a doubt, always been my favourite photographer. Along with Helmut Newton, it is Bourdin that established modern fashion photography, with much of the industry still referencing his work and many current day photographers such as Mert and Marcus, Nick Knight and David LaChapelle naming him a direct influence.
As an artist alone Bourdin has always intrigued me, so imagine my delight a few years ago when I discovered that in 1976 he was hired to shoot lingerie for US department store Bloomingdales (which equivocally would be like Steven Meisel being booked to shoot e-commerce product shots today). The resulting catalog, ‘Sighs and Whispers’ is a meeting of art and advertising that is rarely seen today and continues to diminish with the proliferation of fast fashion, social media and reality TV stars.
Unlike current catalogs, consisting of image after image of toned, globular-breasted-in-moulded-cup, spray tanned models alternating between only two looks- ‘cheesy smile’ and ‘coquettish stare’- ‘Sighs and Whispers’ features a plethora of heavenly 70′s lingerie looks, shown in Bourdin’s signature style of complex narrative, up-lighting and flash, interesting composition and a whole lot of mood- from the sexual and serene to the sinister and slightly frightening. Scenes alternate between what looks like a sensual slumber party, a film noir and in-house occult rituals.
The pictures also sum up the lingerie and loungewear styles of the late 1970s. Fluid silks in pastels like cream, peach and pale grey contrast with bolder black and red, soft-cup bras and low-hipped full briefs echo the shape of the female body, rather than manipulate it. Bias cut and backless slips with robes, tap pants and delicate, minimals trims show the subtle art-deco influences in the 70s and how, with all the high shine fabrics and OTT hair and make-up, looking expensive and decadent was clearly the objective.
It would be a dream if lingerie retailers today could afford and would allow contemporary photographers the kind of artistic freedom in advertising as that of Bourdin by Bloomingdales. I for one, would love to see what Steven Klein could do with a Victoria’s Secret catalog. In Katie Peachesa , at least we have a great example of how it can be done so successfully it not only stands alone as artwork, but sums up and efficiently sells an entire decade’s aesthetic.
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